2011/12/23

More Beppu and Oita

So the ferry has just withdrawn from the dock at Yawatahama and the intrepid explorers are headed out to the semi-open sea. What new dangers await our fearless chickadees?

Our onsen - we also had a sand bath, literally a good moment to tell your
friends to go bury themselves, and a sauna. I was the bravest soul who sat in the
sauna for several minutes at an extremely hot temperature.
It was a little wooden shed with sulfurous rocks in one corner of
our outdoor private onsen. A truly wonderful experience.



Scary faces and angry-looking statues of other-worldly entities are everywhere in Beppu.
This makes sense because the ground actually steams and the gutters run with semi-boiling water.
There is even a tour of 8(?) hells, which I hear are mostly mud-pots.
None, really. Beppu is a bit of a tourist trap. A lot of a tourist trap, as a matter of fact. But the towering hills and modern-looking buildings around the downtown area remind me of home. The burning, sulfurous steam kind of reminds me of what home would look like if God finally had enough of us.

One of the very touristy and still fun things to do is make your own jigoku, or steam your own dinner in  a little steamer built to capture the rising mists of the boiling underground. We made a dinner of vegetables, seafood, eggs, chinese dumplings, and three kinds of rice, all by lowering a little collection of trays into a little steam-urn and waiting the appropriate amount of time.  




Beppu and Oita!

Ah, Beppu. A city between the hills and the ocean. Where the sulphuric mists of hell billow up to bathe the travel-weary body in hot springs carved out of the living earth. Where the over-worked can rest their over-wrought nerves in a bed of mud or earth-warmed sand. Where every breath in a sauna draws in a cleansing, penetrating heat and expels all the baggage we each of us carry on our life's journey.

And such a tourist trap, your wallet shivers when the ferry hits the tire-tread covered dock.

Not that I didn't love it. Because I did. All 18 hours I spent there (7 of those, asleep). Beppu is pretty far away from Tano, on a completely different island, and awkwardly accessible only by train or ferry, one of which is fast and freaking expensive, the other of which is freaking slow and quite reasonable. You guess which is which.

I'm not complaining, though. My travel crew picked our wine-soaked selves out of bed on Saturday morning, dined on french toast and good coffee (thank you Melania!) and headed off to Yawatahama by train. After pissing off an old lady in the unreserved section, we climbed on board our ferry over the Japan Sea (or whatever separates Shikoku from Kyushu) and Charon whisked us off to the land of steam and sake at a brisk 7 kilometers an hour. Probably more like 30, but still.





2011/12/16

Week Whatever

Recently, I realized that if I only learn one grammar point a week, and I stay for only one hundred weeks (two years), I probably can master the most basic elements of Japanese grammar. Not everything and certainly not all the bloody vocabulary. Vocabulary seems insurmountable, at times, simply because it is infinite. I think of all the words I use in real life (not here where they are mostly unidentifiable as real worlds by the majority of my neighbors), many of them are not frequently utilized by many other English speakers, so the equivalent in Japanese would be rather silly. But I DO want to know the big words in Japanese. Even when they are all freaking long words. That`s what happens when you refuse to put consonants together. You get f-ing long words.

This grammar epiphany came to me this morning as I fixed a cup of tea in the office lunch room, a small room that resembles a closet with a sink. In fact, I believe that may be exactly what it is. But it also has a hot-water kettle, a coffee machine and a fridge. So things aren`t all austere and bare. I had been trying to get my head around a few difficult grammar concepts that I had review recently. This is my somewhat disorderly ordered process:

I look up a new grammar point in my handbook of Japanese Verbs (Taeko Kamiya) or the JET Programme Japanese Language Course.

I use it in an exercise or twelve on paper, slowly mouthing out the syllables so as not to annoy/distract any of my coworkers.

If it is a vocabulary point, I try to invent scenarios where I might employ it. If it is grammatical, I try to invent sentences or insert new verbs or vocabulary into the phrase as practice.

I hit up my Jr High conversation buddy (if I am at Jr High) during tea-time and try it out. It doesn`t matter what context it is. I throw it in there any old which-a-way and she laughs hard and says, "chigaimasu!" or sometimes "tadashi, kedo..." (the first meaning "wrong!" the second meaning "correct, but what are you talking about?"). If I`m headed to 小学校 for the day, I randomly employ it in conversation with my fifth graders, during a friendly game of War or over the lunch time table when I am busy teaching them the fine points of English conversation like, "when you punch someone to the floor, you yell `T.K.O!`" They love that one. That and "a little bit", especially when I say it as quickly as possible. They turn to each other and say, "alittrebitgross!" with all they`ve got. It`s hilarious. If I get my grammar point wrong, they just look at me like I`m nuts, or politely ignore it. If I get it right, they just keep going with the conversation because randomness fits when you`re ten.

Thankfully, tonight I am off to Matsuyama where I don`t have to speak much Japanese because I`m meeting up with other Eigo-hanasu-ers and we are headed to Beppu. One of our english speakers is asian, and all the Japanese people speak to her, even when it`s obvious that the only one who speaks passable Japanese is our through-and-through British chick. Stereotypes are awesome.

And then it`s one more week before I head home to crash on the couch with a cup of tea and my puppy, jet-lagged out of my mind, watching Top Gear with my fam and talking all the way through it to the annoyance of strangers and peers. Yay!

2011/12/09

Nara part deux

Blogger: 5, Me: 3.

So to continue. The shrine is covered in lanterns. Stone lanterns, metal lanterns, copper, bronze-looking, and golden lanterns hang and stand everywhere the eye can see and the human body can go.
I imagine they would be quite pretty at night, were the all alight.






This is my favorite picture. They don't particularly look like they
 like each other, but maybe it was the strain of the day. 


After the park and the shinto shrine, we meandered over to the Buddhist temple. Equal opportunity religious people. Except the Buddhist temple dominates everything else. 

Yep, that's me. The temple is pretty far back there. And it is freaking huge.
Inside are several 40 foot tall Buddhas and other enlightened figures,
made from metal, maybe bronze or gold or something. I took some pictures,
but they did not turn out. 

You can't miss it. 


Nara

Nara is so beautiful, basically all you have to do is hold the camera upright and press click. You will always get an amazingly gorgeous, complex and layered picture of something lovely and peaceful or multi-dimensional and thought-provoking. That being said, if any of my photos totally suck, blame it on Kodak.

Nara is outside of Osaka, about an hour train ride in some direction. I forget which. It was Japan's first "permanent" capital city (around 700 A.D.) and became a sort of headquarters for Buddhist priests, or at least a gathering place for monasteries and temples. There are still tons of temples left and one very large and beautiful park where one can tour around several different huge-ass Buddhist worshipping places. (I was running out of synonyms for "temple". BTW, I am exHAUSTed right now. Forgive my flippancy. Nara is my favorite place so far in Japan, outside of my apartment.)

This is a very famous shinto shrine. There are several different terraces and stairs you can walk up or down and see different sides to the shrine. It is fully functioning - while we were there for 45 minutes two different wedding parties came through (one finished up with pictures and the next began a new ceremony). Priests come and go performing various priestly tasks. 

 

2011/11/25

Freaking Freezing!

The wind is howling through my apartment. This is because I have several doors open. I can't help it! Even when it is 50 degrees outside (13 celsius) I feel the need to open all my doors, because I have no windows, and let the breeze in. I am told this helps dry the house out. By the by, in the olden golden days Japanese houses were traditionally built on stilts to help all the moisture from the humid springs and monsoony summers and falls drain away. Sometimes ninjas would sneak into the house through the floor or worse, just hide under the house until the target of their assassination sat or lay down. Then they stabbed him through the floor. Yuck.

Anyway, I have been debating doing some home improvement but I am going to wait until I can ask a reputable source about paint. I am going to paint over my main table and the two chairs because they are as old as dirt and very unattractive.

But until that exciting entry:

Some random pics.

This picture reminds me of Santa Cruz. You can't really see it here, but off to the side of this house
there is a surfboard sticking up out of the ground. Who knows why. It would seem it is just because.
That is very Santa Cruz. 

It's like Jesus is coming back. Except over-exposed. 

A view of the Nahari shipyard from between the freeway and the street. 

This is my bike ride home from Nahari. On one side of me is the freeway and on the other the ocean. That is Tano, up
ahead and to the left-ish. 

I walked up a mountain to take this picture. I just kept going
because I didn't know what might be up there. A surly farmer
and his nasty cat were there, but they did let me take the picture.

That's a boat. But you knew that. 

This I like. I don't know how the train car got here. And the lighting was quite
sharp for once. So some nifty shadows. 

2011/11/20

So about that last post.

The most previous post was supposed to be a comparison shot of a quiet day on a Nahari beach and a day on which during the morning we had a very violently windy and rainy stormish thing. Maybe a mini typhoon? It was pretty horrendous. I rode my bike to the local bakery because I needed bread. Yes, there was an alarm sounding and yes, I almost did get blown off the bridge into the river and swept out to sea. These are the risks you gotta take, people. Panse's bread is like croissants disguised as loafs of bread. It is delicious.

Anyway, Blogger wouldn't let me upload any more videos after that one. So I'm going to try again here. This is (hopefully) a shot of another set of tetrapods the afternoon after the morning of the dreadful storm. It is much greyer and forbidding then the last. And noisier. And I had a bit of a sniffle. Sorry.

Title: New Post

So I haven't been very good about updating my blog. I feel like I am often starting posts like that these days. Grr. I didn't even do all that much this week except go to work and prep lessons. No social life, no outside piano or Japanese or English lessons. I did have my picture taken with all the teachers at the Jr High and that was a momentous occasion. I was the only one wearing pink. I was the only one wearing any sort of light or vaguely trivial color. But many of us were not wearing suits, so it was okay.

I was also the only one wearing neon plaid-blocked knee-socks. Whatever. It was NOT a work day.

The only really exciting thing I did this week was figure out how to intentionally use the video-recording setting on my camera! So I have a marvelous little before and after sequence to show you.



This is a quiet afternoon at the tetrapods in Nahari, the little town next to Tano. Actually, it is quite a big town next to Tano, but really every other village is big compared to Tano. We take up the least amount of space of any of these places. And we have the most money. Or so I've heard. The ocean is very peaceful, blue, and lovely, gently lapping at the stony shore and teasing a few pebbles free of their lodgings. 


2011/11/14

Sorry

I know I haven't been updating very religiously lately. I have been rather surprisingly busy, all the more shocking for someone with a relatively low profile out there in the real world. Here in Asia-land, I have been astonished with the number of pressing social and business engagements springing up left and right like brightly yellow-striped spiders' webs. (Remember - if you come across anything in inaka, look closely: a spider has attached its web in the near vicinity of your head.)

For example:
This past week on Monday I had brass band club and small group. On Tuesday, baseball club practice and adult conversation class. On Wednesday, Japanese lesson and Taiko drumming (to be honest, when we got to Muroto, we found out class was cancelled, but not wanting to make our trip a total bust, we rang up a friend and went to dinner with another ALT and her japanese teacher-coworkers - and no, I am not referring to myself in the first person plural, I am referring to me and Yasuda Stephanie who is kind enough to drive to Taiko). On Thursday, I had brass band club and I learned to make fire at the elementary school! No classes today, Ms. Mary - we have to learn to make fire by rubbing sticks together. Very entertaining, plus I got to chat with the fellow running the demonstration and he let me do one before the kids came out. On Friday, I overslept rehearsal for Bunkasai, and then made a mad dash up to the JR High to rehearse with the teachers who were singing 未来へ (Towards the future) for the culture day on Saturday. Our town was hosting a welcome party for the Chugei Jets and their bosses - a grand lot of fun with good food, beer, sake shots, and karaoke after hours. On Saturday, I went to culture day, judged the singing competition between the grades, played for the teachers, and sat through the student-written and performed plays. Did not understand a single word, but I kind of got the gist of what might be going on. This was a multi-hour event for which I apparently got monday as holiday "in lieu of". I found that out this morning when I got to school. On Sunday, I went to a ceramics festival and then to dinner with one of the elementary school teachers and her husband and another teacher.

It may not sound like much, but I am not a very social person. I do not have many pressing engagements back in the states, not even in my busiest day of university, so this sort of social schedule is quite surprising. Add to that the alarming fact that each activity takes place almost exclusively in Japanese. I am often the only English speaker present (not always, but almost always) and I do my best to follow and listen to what is going on, but four months of study will only get you so far.

I will try to put up more pictures soon. They may or may not have captions.
AUGH!

2011/11/04

Tea Ceremony

Kitagawamura (北川村) is known for Yuzu, a small fruit like if a lemon and a grapefruit had a baby. It's more tart than sour, while still retaining all the other aspects of a citrus-y taste. I don't like it very much (but I don't like citrus). Anyway, the village produces the most Yuzu of any village in Japan and then they process it and send it to another village nearby to be turned into billions of different products. This is also the village known for that fellow's house - Nakaoka Shintaro, the samurai fellow with two swords. At his house, you could have matcha, green tea made from green tea powder, slightly bitter but mostly just banal. I don't think it tastes like much, but it's tasty enough. I got to make my own.

The preparation of tea has evolved into an extremely detailed and refined art form. People (maybe just women) study tea ceremony for years, like wearing kimono or doing traditional dances. If you ever see geishas serve tea, they will follow the same steps as this very formal and deliberate method (I think...). It's quite impressive and is designed to be as elegant and lady-like as possible.

I am not particularly elegant or lady-like, refined or detailed, formal or deliberate. But I really enjoyed these ladies trying to teach me and letting me make my own.

 First you warm the cup. It has a white stripe down the front, so you remember where the front is. During the preparation of the tea, the stripe faces the person making the tea. 

There is a very precise way that you pick up the tea container and the tea scoop. You pick up both from the top with one hand. You hold the bottom of the tea container with your other hand and remove the lid and place it on the table (while continuing to hold the tea scoop). 

 You scoop out some matcha, the exact measurements, I do not know. The nice lady just told me when to stop. 



Then you scoop some hot water (not boiling I think), from the earthenware pot. You hold the ladle handle between three fingers and your thumb. Maybe. The first time you dip it into the pot, you just put it back. The second time, you scoop water out for your tea cup. 

You carefully ladle the water into the tea cup. I'm sure the pros never NEVER spill. They probably also evenly distribute the water over all the tea. 

Then you get a little wisk and start wisking. Or is it whisking? Like whiskers? 

You stir back and forth and gently dissolve all the tea. The multi-pronged stirring-tool makes it froth and foam a bit. I imagine this should also become an even layer of white fluff. 

The last stroke of the whisk is in a specific pattern, like the shape of the syllable "の"(no). When you are done, the whisk is carefully replaced in its original spot. 

Then you pick up the cup and turn it so that the white stripe is facing the guest. 


 In this particular case, I was also my own guest, but my friend taking pictures pretended she was the guest so I could practice turning my cup around. 

The point of tea ceremony is much more interesting than actually making the tea. All the elaborate preparations and precise movements (none of which I even remotely accomplished in my ten minute escapade) are to show the guest that you care about them. The Japanese language is interesting, but I personally believe it falls a little short on expression of intimate feelings, even simple emotions sometimes. Perhaps I don't know enough Japanese. But I think the culture might sometimes back me up on this thought. I think some of the precision and ritual that is such a prominent and essential part of Japanese traditions comes from needing an alternate method of expressing fundamental and sincere emotions. For tea ceremony, there is even a separate room like a kitchen (but no the kitchen) for preparing and then there is a separate room where one serves tea to ones guests. Every movement in the preparation and serving of the tea is dictated, every gesture predetermined, every delightful intricacy practiced a thousand times before publicly attempted. It is a performance, in which the performer shares something beautiful and exquisite with the audience in the attempt to communicate... what? If I were doing this thing, I have to admit it wouldn't be for just any old guest. 

I used to work in coffee shops (and no doubt will again, every now and then as fate dictates). I don't particularly care for the service industry, but there is something enjoyable about being able to provide something nice for someone who wants it. Yes, I had bitchy some customers, but most of the people who came for coffee or tea were nice and all of them were dying for their coffee. Except those frappuccino cheerleader brats. (Google spell-check doesn't know how to spell Frappuccino! Neither do I!)

I don't really like to cook. In fact, it bores me to tears unless I am helping a bunch of other people and it definitely helps if we are drinking heavily. But I have always kind of wished that I enjoyed it, because preparing food for someone is a great way to show them you care about them. Which is why Brad should always love me, because I once made him an egg white, broccoli, and (was it bacon?) scramble. But I like making drinks more. I've made tea for people to show them I cared or that I was happy they were in my house. After a hard day at work, I made drinks for my roommate and he made drinks for me (alcoholic ones - we were such the model 1950s couple). But there was no ceremony attached, no elaborate process that showed the other person that all the details were included because I wanted to spare no effort to make the event memorable. 

I used to be a performing musician (I still am, but not nearly in the same capacity or at the same level). I took care over the pieces I played because 1) I didn't want to be embarrassed by totally sucking arse and 2) on some level, music was always about communicating who I really was, my fundamental self, without the distraction of sarcasm and cynicism, jokes and defense mechanisms. It was one of the only times I could share something with someone else and I had to be honest about it. I spent hours every day, practicing being honest and open about my deepest feelings. But the only medium I had was music. I'm trying to find someone to teach me tea ceremony, because I think the solemn exultation of "intricate ritual faultlessly performed" is something I could get into again. It's definitely something that can be shared with others, even if it's only one or two people and you have to crawl in the tea room through a very tiny door (you do, by the way - it's a bit ridiculous and I'm not sure of the purpose). And it's way easier than memorizing Bach.    


2011/10/22

Chugei


Just a small note about Chugei.

Chugei refers to the collection of five villages surrounding Tano (including Tano). Umaji, Kitagawamura, Yasuda, Tano, and Nahari are collectively a little nexus against the big bag blankness that lies between Nahari and Muroto and Yasuda and Aki. There are other cities out there, they just don't matter much. It's a question of sotto vs uchi. That's for another time.

Apparently this little group used to be the logging center of here. I didn't understand it all or even much of it, but there used to be an impressive train track via which the massive logs were carted down the mountains out to the seaside, probably to be made into disposable chopsticks. I jest. That's what the Amazon Rain-forest is for. (google spell-check made me hyphenate "rainforest"...) 

This year was the 100th anniversary of the railroading-logging-five-villages connection and Tano hosted a little festival in honor of all the dead trees. We had a tiny miniature railroad and a little Blue train that could, but it could only go straight. When it hit the end of the track, it simply shifted into reverse and came back. 


We also had a visit from a few of the anime characters who make up our train-line. Each train stop has
a little guy to help you remember which is your stop. Tano's is a blue samurai. Nahari's is a conductor-chick. And Yasuda's is a fellow with a fish on his hat. 




And of course we had a visit from Nakaoka Shintaro from Kitagawamura. He looks quite frightful. 

That's all.

2011/10/19

Woo-Hoo!


Or "Power Cords, Shrine-climbing and Ramen". 





I got my power cord in the mail this afternoon (thanks mom!) and upon returning to my humble abode, plugged in the ol' パソコン and started downloading pictures. I must soon buy an external hard-drive, but not just yet. I am so running out of room for all my pics and some of my tv shows. 

Shrine-climbing. 

Shrines are everywhere in Japan, and more especially in rural Japan, and MORE especially on Shikoku, the island of the 88-temple pilgrimage (88 keys on a piano, right....). Pilgrims are abundant, and shrines are prolific, even if that"s not quite the right way to use "prolific". You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a dish of incense or a tiny bottle of sake wrapped in an ancient and weathered red handkerchief. Or sometimes just a random stone draped with some tinselly-looking wires. On a typical bike ride, I probably pass by about 25 different shrines that I notice, and probably many more that I don't see because I am focused on teaching myself to ride with no hands on the handlebars. It's a very small town and there's not a lot to do. 

In Yasuda, the next tiny town over, they have a very famous pilgrimage-worthy shrine up an endless mountain. My bicycle and I tried to find this shrine and instead we ran into a pilgrim who told us it was really quite far still, yo! And we turned around.

But on my way home, I ran into another shrine. Or the bottom of one. 



You can see it was a bit of a hike up to that little gate-like arch. 
And here are some shots from the actual steps up which I dragged myself. (Mind you, this is all after having climbed the insurmountable mountain with my little black bicycle. My calves have never looked so good.)

looking up

looking down

Almost there

The view from above

It was a very nice view, although the scenery around me was mostly in its end-of-summer-not-yet-drowned-by-typhoon-browns-greens-and-yellows stage. But you could certainly see quite a ways. And if the tsunami had come at exactly this moment, I would have been perfectly safe. Stranded in the woods with mosquitos and pilgrims, but un-drowned. 


And last, some ramen. 

I did not use to be much of a fan of ramen. When my sister was last in Tokyo, she took me to a little ramen joint that changed my world view as it looks at ramen. This has made me much more open-minded about the ramen experience and so now when my friend Saya from 北川村 asks me if I like ramen, I reply steadily, believing in things I have only partially seen, Yes. 

Salt ramen: before


Salt ramen: after